We wanted to climb to the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse viewing point. It was up a long, steep hill, followed by another long, steep hill.
As we looked back, we could see the remains of the castle Dún an Óir, ("Fort of the Gold") which was cannonaded in 1580 in a three-year struggle that involved the Irish, Spaniards, Italians, the English, and, of course, religion.